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Путешествие в Южную Африку. часть2


Дата: 2009-07-01 | Автор статьи: Константин Карабанов | 
Категория: Путешествия | Раздел: Экскурсии | Просмотров: 4519

Путешествие в Южную Африку:
две стороны одной медали

Часть 2 (Начало читайте в Части 1)

Продолжаю описание моих впечатлений от поездки в Южную Африку в июне 2009 г. В первой части я рассказывал об истории и политике, крупном и мелком бизнесе, кухне и сувенирах, природе и животных.

Социальные проблемы

Вторая часть будет посвящена «другой стороне медали». В ЮАР много социальных язв - очень высокая безработица (50% среди молодых людей 20-25 лет), бедность, низкий уровень образования, СПИД и наркомания. Но самая большая проблема – это преступность. Йоханнесбург и окружающая его провинция Гаутенг – весьма опасное для жизни место.

Южная Африка, Йоханнесбург

Нашу группу поселили в местечке Сандтон Сити, на окраине города, в хорошей гостинице с забавным название «Балалайка». Провели инструктаж, сказав, что здесь достаточно безопасно, рядом офисы банков, везде охрана, но в центр города лучше не ездить. Большой риск был высаженным из машины под дулом пистолета, ограбленным, а если будете сопротивляться - убитым. Мы охотно поверили, так как уже читали об этом заранее и некоторые даже слышали рассказы знакомых. В один из вечеров, примерно в половине шестого, когда уже стемнело (в июне там календарная зима), я вышел из гостиницы один и прошел буквально 5-7 минут до площади Манделы, до ближайшего торгового центра, а потом вернулся обратно. Ей-богу, мне хватило – такими косыми взглядами меня провожали черные, и это в безопасном районе.

В Кейптауне все выглядит спокойнее, возможно, из-за живописности места, океана и окружающих лесов и гор, а может из-за большого количества туристов и полиции на каждом углу. Мы даже рискнули самостоятельно (правда, вшестером) поехать на большую обзорную экскурсию по окрестностям, на типично английском double-decker - двухэтажном автобусе, но c открытым верхом.

Меры безопасности

Я в жизни не видал столько колючей проволоки, пущенной по верху высоких заборов, окружающих частные дома, где живут белые, и все производственные объекты. На окнах – толстые и прочные по виду решетки. А на стенах и заборах висит предупреждающая табличка с логотипом охранной фирмы, ее телефоном и словами “Armed Response” (вооруженный отпор) и обещанием преследовать по закону нарушителей границы участка. Машины частной охранной фирмы постоянно патрулируют кварталы и поселки, где живет белое население.

предупреждающая табличка

У нас была встреча с представителями фирмы Altech Netstar Group, занимающейся розыском и возвратом угнанных автомобилей и последнее время – похищенных людей. В основе бизнеса – прибор, который крепится в разных местах машины, грузовика, или на одежде человека. Вертолеты ведут розыск, а вооруженная частная «силовая структура» осуществляет захват (эффективность – 85%). Полицию, конечно, ставят в известность по рации, но она выезжает только на серьезные преступления, а по мелочи разбираются сами. Дела фирмы, основанной в 1994 г., идут очень хорошо. Узнав, что я из России, спросили, не хочу ли я купить франшизу? У вас ведь тоже часто воруют машины. Да, ответил я, это правда, вот только над Москвой запрещено летать на частных вертолетах.

Поселения

Как жило в прошлом черное негритянское большинство в стране, мы имели возможность посмотреть в музее Апартеида и музее Гектора Питерсена. Этот 13-летний мальчишка погиб во время волнений школьников в Соуэто (Soweto), пригородном поселении (township) Йоханнесбурга, в июне 1976 г. Школьники выступили против преподавания предметов на африкаанс, языке белого меньшинства. Волнения переросли в беспорядки, полицейские открыли огонь. Там было много убитых, но он погиб первым.

Соуэто

После того, как Мандела стал Президентом ЮАР, он распорядился построить в Соуэто 700 тысяч кирпичных домов, провести свет и воду. Он сам там жил, мы проезжали мимо его дома, который открыт для посещений. Дома там небольшие, стоят скученно, очень близко друг и другу, их много – до горизонта. Там легко может жить миллион человек. По дороге заметил две большие толстые трубы тепловой электростанции. Одна весьма красиво выкрашена в религиозных мотивах (кажется дева Мария с маленьким Иисусом на руках), а на второй – реклама FNB, крупного местного банка.

Сейчас Соуэто производит вполне пристойное впечатление, но вот другие поселения чернокожего и цветного населения, которые мы видели рядом с Йоханнесбургом и позже – недалеко от Кейптауна, не такие симпатичные.

 

швея-мотористкаЯ долго не мог понять, что мне напоминают эти постройки из ржавого железа и гнилого дерева. Потом понял: у нас в московском дворике в 1980-х годах стояли гаражи примерно такого же качества. Мы в детстве любили с друзьям бегать по их крышам, к большому неудовольствию их владельцев. Эти гаражи давно снесли. А тут в похожих люди живут, причем очень скученно. На трассе были видны столбы с проводами – электричество.

Внутрь одного из таких поселений мы заехали лишь однажды, по приглашению местной церковной организации, белые добровольцы которой обучает ремеслу черное население. Женщин учат работать на компьютере и шить - на старых, с ножным приводом, швейных машинках фирмы Brother. Мужчины изготавливают керамические изделия и столярничают. Всего там работали человек 30. Интересно, что часть швейной продукции, например, пляжные сумки и вышитые полотна, идет на экспорт, в США и Европу, и говорят, пользуется там хорошим спросом.

 

Женщин учат шить

На стене этого учебного центра висит список правил для местных: приходить вовремя (оказывается, черным это тяжело, таковы традиции), не есть и не пить, сидя за компьютером (актуально и в России), не пользоваться мобильником на рабочем месте.

Местные жители

Сотовая связь в ЮАР - весьма обычное дело, она недорогая, а телефон есть у каждого. Я своими глазами видел у цветного парня лет 25 два телефона, и он бегло говорил по-английски. Мы разговорились. Он сказал, что его зовут Рикардо, он пользуется Интернетом, нет, не дома, откуда дома компьютер? В библиотеке, построенной на средства американской благотворительной организации. Он - певец, играет на гитаре, живет в поселке Ocean View (Вид на океан), недалеко от Кейптауна, где на каждой углу продают наркоту. Какую? Тахоин, местного производства, или «таха», как все его называют. И если ты его не употребляешь и не пьешь алкоголь, то ты – изгой. От парнишки действительно чем-то попахивало, но может, он просто неделю-другую не мылся или забыл постирать одежду. А вообще, он был ничего, толстый, веселый и доброжелательный, с хорошим чувством юмора.

Я обратил внимание, что большинство черных южноафриканок - крепкого телосложения, иногда очень полные. Сначала думал, что такая конституция. Потом заметил нескольких молодых, которые были постройнее. Разгадка пришла, когда у них настал обеденный перерыв. Знаете, что они все ели? Апельсины, а потом картошку во фритюре. И так, говорят, почти каждый день.

Местные жители

Прочие приколы

Запомнилась Школа бизнеса Университета Кейптауна, которая находится в здании бывшей тюрьмы. Заходя внутрь, испытываешь странное чувство. Идешь по длинным коридорам, по бокам - железные двери, одна за другой. Внутри каждой - небольшие, 10-12 квадратных метров, комнаты, ну точно, отремонтированные камеры. Там сейчас занимаются студенты. В «камерах» побольше площадью – лекционные залы. Внешне здание Школы бизнеса представляет собой белый, пустой в середине, квадрат, по периметру которой расположены четыре мощные смотровые башни.

Школа бизнеса - бывшая тюрьма

Прямых рейсов из России в ЮАР нет, поэтому летел через Лондон. Всего 12 часов ночного перелета, и ты на месте. Если никто рядом не храпит, и не выходит в сортир каждый час, и ты сумел немного поспать, натянув повязку на глаза и закутавшись в легкий плед – считай, повезло. Интересно, какие подают приборы на Южно-Африканских Авиалиниях, чтобы было чем покушать: Металлическую ложечку для чая и вилку, но почему-то пластмассовый нож. Странные они какие-то. Выучили правила безопасности, но наверное, не читали российские книжки про спецназ и не знают, что в руках умелого человека даже металлическая вилка – смертельное оружие.

Южная Африка

Послесловие

Просмотрел свои записи и понял, что вроде ничего не забыл. Поездка вышла незабываемая, но если бы меня спросили, хотел бы я жить и работать в ЮАР, я бы трижды подумал, прежде чем согласиться. Для туризма эта страна очень привлекательна, но обитать там постоянно? Не знаю, разве что в Кейптауне, через много лет, когда выйду на пенсию.

Константин Карабанов

Начало читайте в Части 1.

 

Дата написания статьи: 2009-07-01
Автор статьи: Константин Карабанов


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